Greece Travel Guide: Recommendations & Itinerary
My personal do's, dont's, and maybe's if you ever find yourself traveling to Greece. Mostly do's.
Inspired by Zoe of Spilt Milk Collective. Go read her itinerary too for more great recommendations.
This summer was our third time visiting Greece. I feel like I have a pretty good handle on how to travel around, dine, and sightsee here.
There is a reason we’ve been to Greece 3 times, and plan to come back for the rest of our lives. It has everything my partner and I love - he loves ancient history & archaeology, I love herbalism and nature, and we both LOVE to eat and swim in the ocean.
The people here are hospitable, warm, and loud… much like the cultures we both come from. The food is just. Insane. I would say I’ve eaten at least 2 out of 3 of the best meals of my life here. The land is steeped in rich history and mythology, and there’s something to do for everyone. Nature enthusiasts and outdoors adventurers, artists and musicians, ceramicists, history nerds, foodies (yes, I just used that word), party goers, etc. etc.
I also read Circe by Madeline Miller after going to Greece last year, and finished The Song of Achilles by the same author while here this year… which immensely added to my excitement. In case you need a book to read during your travels and are at all into Greek Myth. Or go all out and read Homer’s Odyssey. Lol.
Some general notes:
We have only come during the summer so far. It’s peak tourist season and this year in particular was brutal due to a series of heat waves and wildfires. We would love to try coming in the fall or spring, and Northern Greece specifically during the winter.
We stay pretty much exclusively in *local owned* Airbnb’s or small boutique inns. We try to support the local economy as much as possible and avoid big chain resorts, corporate hospitality groups, or Airbnb’s that are not locally owned. It’s also more affordable and you find some pretty unique places this way.
Eat. Eat as much as your heart desires. You’ll be walking a lot. And traditional Greek food is everything… so different and immensely better (like a million times better) than American attempts at Greek cuisine.
If you do come during the summer, as most do, come prepared. Walking shoes, beach towels, electrolytes, refillable water bottles (for places that have drinkable tap water), lightweight clothing, sun protection.
Keep cash on you, but many places do accept card and apple pay if needed
Learn a few simple words and greetings - it goes a long way.
Food wise, you will almost never go wrong with a Taverna, a.k.a tavern, a.k.a a family-owned restaurant that uses seasonal ingredients and traditional recipes. Different regions are known for different dishes and animal proteins. Get seafood near the coast. Try wild boar, lamb, and goat in Northern Greece or in mountainous island regions. Get a Greek salad literally everywhere. Everyday.
Here is a comprehensive list of each part of Greece I’ve been to and my recommendations:
Santorini
Santorini is a romantic and popular honeymoon destination. Beware that it’s extremely touristy and expensive. It is, however, quiet, beautiful, and peaceful. The island rests on top of a volcano that catastrophically erupted in 1600 BCE, and it’s quite majestic. There is lots of elevation and stair-climbing, so it’s not ideal for those with impaired or limited mobility. If you’re into history and open to venturing out of the main town, definitely go to Akrotiri. It’s a well-preserved ancient volcanic settlement on the edge of the island. It’s shaded which is nice during the hotter months. We also took a tour of the island that included visiting the red sand beach and stopping at some local shops which was totally worth it in my opinion. If you decide to visit Santorini, venture out of the town when you can.
Mykonos
We came to Mykonos with a huge group of people to celebrate a birthday, so it was mostly just partying and day drinking. We aren’t big partakers in either of those activities, so it wasn’t really for us, but we had fun anyways. *Highly* recommend renting an ATV for a day and driving around the island for a little break from the chaotic nightlife of the main town if you can. There are some really nice art galleries in town, too. One of the days on Mykonos, we took a ferry to a small island called Delos for a day trip. Delos is a crazy sight to behold. It's covered in ruins and artifacts from multiple Ancient Greek eras as it was once an important religious center and port. We took a tour but ended up breaking off to explore on our own.
Athens
Athens is very cool. It’s almost inevitable to find yourself in the city at some point on your trip, unless you’re just island hopping around islands that are in the same group. We have been 3 times. It’s where the biggest airport and a very central port are located, so you might end up here for a transfer or something. I recommend staying for a couple of nights if you can. It’s very multicultural, there’s lots of great food, and you can find some nice locally owned Airbnb’s, hostels, and boutique hotels/inns. There are some decently cheap options in the city that are walking distance to downtown. Visit the Acropolis if you come during a not-too-hot month, and definitely try to go to the Archaeological Museum. We ate the best baklava of our lives at a bakery called Cafe Veneti, attached to Beneth Food Hall. Avoid touristy restaurants as they’ll be pretty pricey and the food is never as good as local spots and family-owned taverns.
*Note* From Athens, we drove about 1.5-2 hours to Mycenae for a little day trip. Mycenae is a small village and home to the famous Palace of Mycenae, where king Agamemnon from the Iliad who commanded his warriors in the Trojan war once ruled. This was one of our favorite archaeological sites… it felt extremely magical and the energy was potent in a peaceful sort of way. There is a point at the top of the palace’s ruins where it’s said that the Mycenaeans worshipped Athena and I don’t know how to explain it but I 100% understood why. I remember staring up at a ray of sun peaking through a patch of grey clouds with wind blowing all around me and rustling through olive tree groves. I was like… yeah. I would practice Athenian rites and rituals here too. You can also visit Agamemnon’s tomb access the road from the palace which was a very surreal experience. When in Mycenae, you MUST eat at Elektra Taverna. This was one of the best meals we’ve ever had. Like most tavernas, the cook was a sweet older lady whose husband ran the “front of house”. We were the only people there since it’s a bit out of the way and we went at like 4pm but it was insane. The tomatoes in the Greek salad looked and tasted like they were picked by the Gods themselves. The juiciest, reddest tomatoes I’ve ever seen in my life. They gave us a plate of fresh fruit drizzled with local honey and we died and went to heaven. Go. Trust me.
Thessaloniki
I feel a little bad for saying this, but I probably wouldn't return. I’m not a big city person, and prefer Athens if I had to pick out of the two. It just felt like there was more to see in Athens. I'm glad I saw it once, though. We made the most of it by walking everywhere, staying in a cute apartment, and eating some amazing food (noticing a trend here?). Walking along the port makes a nice evening ritual. The Rouga is a phenomenal restaurant, a little finer, but has an amazing selection of both seafood and meat dishes. I loved its interior and ambience. It was very busy when we went so I would try to get a reservation a day or two in advance. Kanoula was a great lunch spot. I got the beetroot ravioli and we shared a Greek salad, both super delicious and fresh.
*Note* We stopped at the village at the base of Mount Olympus on the way to Arachova from Athens for lunch and definitely recommend making a pit stop here at some point. Super beautiful and serene, and the town could be worth spending a night or two in. It was way too hot to do much hiking on this trip but there are lots of hikes in the area.
Arachova
We stopped at Arachova for a night on our drive down to Athens from Thessaloniki. It’s supposed to be a popular skiing destination during the wintertime, and I could totally see how festive it must be during the holidays. It’s got a Polar Express vibe. It was adorable, but definitely a bit more upscale and developed to give off a certain energy that attracts affluence (as most ski destinations do). However, it wasn’t crazy expensive if you stick to less touristy spots to shop/dine/stay. It’s a tiny town perched on the side of a tall mountain overlooking the rest of the mountain range, and the sunset here was unreal. The only reason we didn't stay longer is that our Airbnb was built to be an insulated winter cabin with no AC and we had a hard time sleeping through the first night. Go to “Taverna Arachova, Kariovouni”. It’s a taverna a little deeper into the village, away from the touristy main street, and it’s utterly fantastic. Get the lamb or goat with local pasta, stuffed vegetables, and a glass or two of a local red wine. We went for dinner and then lunch the next day. While in Arachova, we drove to Delphi which is like 15 minutes away. Delphi is a must-see if you drive through this region, but can be out of the way if not. It’s an ancient archaeological site that was once a sanctuary for Apollo and seat of the oracle of Delphi. It’s also on the side of a mountain overlooking a ravine. It’s insane to see in person and another site where the energy feels very intense. We went to the museum afterwards (it’s right there) and it was definitely worth it.
Hydra
The small island of Hydra is a must-see. It is considerably pricier than other islands, but we made it work within our budget by just staying for 2 nights. It’s super pretty, peaceful, and a French tourism hotspot apparently. We heard French being spoken more than Greek which was interesting. There are some art galleries and cute but expensive boutiques you can peruse by the port. Note that it’s a carless island, so you walk everywhere. We had the misfortune of booking a tiny airbnb cottage at the top of a hill, and had to climb the steep hill covered in slippery stones with our 50 & 60 pound suitcases (we came for a month this year… don’t judge us) for 30 minutes. That situation aside, I had one of my best days of this trip here. My boyfriend was exhausted one of the days, so I ventured out and took myself on a solo date. I stopped at the market to grab some fruit, then walked to the tiny beach (it’s mostly rocks and little concrete slabs that jut out over the pristine Aegean water) and swam in the water for a while. I then enjoyed my figs and plums in the sun, read my book, and took some photos on my camera. Then, I walked to a waterfront restaurant right on the port that a girl working in a local cafe recommended to me. The name is Greek and I can’t type it out but it has all red chairs so you can’t miss it. I got the seafood linguini, Greek salad (many seaside restaurants put a seaweed called Kritamo on their salads), and a glass of chilled white wine. It was a euphoric experience. I then wandered around the island trying to find my way back to our Airbnb, and got lost at the literal top of a mountain surrounded by (domesticated) horses and chickens. I knew I was lost but exactly where I needed to be when I looked up and saw a white horse standing in an olive grove, staring directly at me. It was a perfect day.
Crete
Oh, Crete. Where to begin. We came for the first time last year and I silently cried in the plane on the way back home. We have both left big huge pieces of our hearts and souls on this island. Crete is the largest Greek island, diving the Aegean Sea from the Libyan sea. It’s closer to North Africa than it is to Istanbul or Northern Greece. It’s a self-sustaining island that barely imports any food crops, home to hundreds of local goat/sheep shepherds and olive farms. And it’s my favorite place on Earth. I should probably write a whole separate itinerary for Crete, but for now, I’ll try to condense it as best as I can. It’s the cheapest part of Greece we’ve been to. Like 800 euros to rent a car for 2.5 weeks and 35 euros to eat a farm-to-table 4 course meal for two cheap. One note: I highly recommend renting a car in Crete. You can make it without a car everywhere else in Greece, but Crete is massive and rugged and there is so much to see. Next time we come, we are going to rent an all-wheel-drive or 4WD (you should be fine with an AWD) because some of the hidden gems and coolest beaches/hikes require a little off-roading.
Last year we stayed in Zourva, Heraklion, and Mochlos. Zourva is an unbelievably magical tiny village straight out of a fairytale located on the Western side of Crete. It’s situated at the top of a mountain, surrounded by coniferous forests with wild and domesticated goats roaming through them. Our home was a tiny cottage owned by a family whose other family members also ran a tavern on the mountain where I ate the best meal of my life. Heraklion is a port city and the capital of Crete. It’s a chaotic city so I wouldn’t spend too much time there but it’s worth visiting. When in Heraklion, you must eat at Petousis Taverna and Athali. We ate at both spots both times we visited Heraklion. Both make the most delicious, nourishing food that tastes like a warm hug. In fact, Cretan cuisine all tastes like a warm hug from a sweet grandmother. I heard someone say Crete is the breadbasket of Greece. Some dishes you must try in Crete are Cretan Moussaka, Dakos, Cretan hard cheeses, Cretan cheese pies, lamb antikristo, stuffed peppers/tomatoes, and any goat dishes. Almost all Cretan taverns and restaurants will also give you a free desert and Raki, a traditional alcohol made with distilled grape pomace and anise. Crete has the best food in Greece, in my opinion. Anyways, onto Mochlos. Mochlos is the CUTEST little fishing village on the Eastern coast. It’s so adorable and picturesque. The seafood is incredible, and you can’t go wrong with a whole seabass or bream with a side of grilled veggies. There is a beach in town with the best swimming imaginable. We got snorkels last time and swam for hours. There is also a tiny island right off the coast of Mochlos that you can get to on a 2 minute motorboat operated by this very kind man who reminded me of Aquaman. It’s a stone’s throw away, and you can paddleboard or kayak there if you’d like. The uninhabited island is covered in ancient ruins that you can hike and get lost in forever, even though it’s super tiny. They light the island up at night so you can see it from the “mainland”. Some other must-sees from last year were: Richtis gorge (Crete is known for its hikeable gorges), Preveli Beach (a beach with a small river that flows into it and a native palm forest), Knossos Palace (the biggest ancient Minoan palace on the island), Phalasarna (a harbor town with Hellenistic ruins basically right on the beach), Heraklion Archaeological Museum (you can get a ticket for this paired with Knossos), and Itanos (beach and archaeological site).
This year, we stayed in Rethymno, Sisi, and Matala. Rethymno is a beautiful larger city on the North Coast of Crete. We stayed in a village called Gerani and loved it. They had Cretan music festivals happening when we were there so it was super lively, with families and children of all ages out and about each night. We sort of took this portion of our trip as a chance to rest and get some work done, but we stayed for 3 nights. After our last night in Rethymno, we drove to one of the coolest beaches I’ve ever seen called Agiofarago. Note that you have to offroad for a bit, then park at the entrance to a small gorge, and hike for about 20 minutes to get to the beach. But it’s so worth it and the water is perfect. We also visited Maravel Garden, which is a medicinal herb and botanical garden with a winery, cafe, and a natural goods store. I cannot resist spending a bunch of cash at a natural goods store so I bought lots of goodies. From Rethymno, we went to Sisi, which was my favorite part of this Crete visit. It’s another small seaside town on the North Coast, east of Heraklion. It’s super walkable, quaint, and situated right on the beach with a very swimmable little lagoon. It’s quite picturesque and therefore touristy but I would absolutely go back. Go eat at an organic spot called Mike’s Place Tavern. They serve the best raki I’ve ever had. Then chill out on a hammock chair with a vibey soundtrack playing in the background at Palm Bay Resort for a bit. We also went to the archaeological site of Malia Palace, an ancient Minoan palace right outside Sisi, and swam in the beach there. After Sisi, we went to Matala, which is known for its hippie cave beach. Exactly what it sounds like, but cooler. The beach is enclosed on either side by cavernous rocks that apparently Joni Mitchell posted up in for a couple of months back in the 60’s. She even wrote a song about it. We stayed right outside the main town, about 20 minutes walking distance. I ate dinner one night at Taverna Alexis Zorbas - the food was decent, pretty touristy, but the view made it completely worth it. Nothing like watching the sun setting over the Libyan sea while enjoying a plate of Beef Stifado over spaghetti (braised beef stew with sweet onions). On our last day, we drove to another local beach, swam for a bit, then went to a taverna called Lamb House. The food is phenomenal and all cooked by one lady in the back. The whole family’s children were out playing, and one of the little girls was harvesting rosemary for her family member (aunt? grandma? not sure) in the kitchen. It was so pure and made me feel like everything is going to be okay.
Note: I visited a farm for a work opportunity called Peskesi, near the Heraklion area but obviously super rural. It supplies produce to its very own restaurant (also called Peskesi) in Heraklion, and if you ever have the opportunity, you MUST visit. It’s a family owned farm that hosts private dinners and cooking classes. There are lots of small family farms on Crete that you can visit which I highly recommend. Last year, we visited a small olive oil farm (sadly no longer open to the public) and did an olive oil tasting. You can find lots of experiences like this, including honey and wine tastings, on Airbnb experiences or just though a simple Google search. They’re very affordable, too.
Whew. That was a lot. I feel like I just blacked out for 2 hours writing in this cafe in Alexandropoli while waiting for my ferry to Samothrace. I’m going on a 5-day herbalism retreat. I will probably make a whole separate post about that. P.S. if you ever find yourself at the port of Alexandropoli for a few hours and need to work, NOA cafe has decent wifi.
I hope this was helpful! Reach out if you have any questions or need any other Greece recommendations. I want to make more travel guides in the future - travel is a big, important part of my life and I hope to continue sharing how to do it as sustainably as possible while deepening your appreciation for cultures around the world. :)